"I've always been drawn to the darker things," Robert Geller said before his show, surprising no one who's followed his career. So when he said he'd been thinking of beaches—hives of sun, fun, and frolic—you thought, hmmm. Until, that is, he adds that it was Sarah Moon's photographs of beaches that set him on his course. Moon's moody, sepia-toned landscapes, with her signature soft focus and eerie thrum, are a world away from spring break, and well within Geller's wheelhouse. These are the kind of beaches Meursault must've wandered down, pistol in hand.

Summer fun, Robert Geller style: wide, pleated shorts, hand-knit mesh tanks, a long trench. Who needs SPF? Especially when, in a regrettable touch, Geller zippered his pale wanderers into neoprene leg warmers and armbands. Without them, the collection he showed had the hallmarks of his long-honed aesthetic, something he said he'd been considering lately. Gypsyish layers. Loose tailoring that's at least half sport. Geller's boys have always been of the student-revolutionary stripe, and those aren't beach-blanket-bingo types (although, for the first time, they'll be able to wear RG sneakers, made in collaboration with Common Projects). But in moments where proportion and form worked together—Charlie France in a collarless baseball shirt and carrot trousers that hit at the ankle, say—they had a Gellerish charge of their own.