Salaam, Bombay! Viktor & Rolf
's latest took India as its loose theme—loose in both senses of the word. Their Indian (Spring) Summer was a suit-heavy range that emphasized ornamentation. If it could glitter, chances are it did. Noah Mills' show-opening look first sent the light flaring with metallic high-tops and a silver-threaded tie. It all took off from there. Traditional European shapes relaxed: The new dress shirt is a tunic; the new suit pant, a jodhpur. Where slouch turned to droop, results were mixed. Motifs with a twist on the whole fared better. The new herringbone is (in descending order) an embroidery on jacquard, an illustration done by hand, or, at its farthest out, a pattern of sewn-in mirrors. Here's looking at you, kid—literally.