September 30, 2012 Paris
Models strode out confidently in Walter Steiger-designed ballerina flats, wearing cardigan jackets and A-line horsehair skirts or double-face, elongated gilets with flaring bootleg pants. Tailoring is the heart and soul of Akris, and Kriemler showed the label's range, going from a casual yet crisp oversize button-down and leather almost-leggings (not quite second-skin-tight), to an ivory take on a smoking, to a fluoro orange jacket and matching color-blocked pants.
Another theme he touched on: the house-signature photoprints. This season, Kriemler used images of gardens designed by the famous Brazilian landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, a personal hero of the designer's known for his curved and sensual silos. An overhead shot of the roof garden of the Banco Safra headquarters looked pretty sensational reproduced on a floor-length skirt shown with one of those low-key tanks.
With 90 looks on the runway, though, they couldn't all be hits. An organza shift with a huge leaf appliqué didn't quite live up to Akris' elegant reputation. Still, we like what it suggested: that even after nine decades, Akris is still in growth mode.