Araks Yeramyan loves a research project, and for Spring she dug into the end of Japan's isolationist period, which corresponded in the West with the beginning of the Victorian era. As a result, Yeramyan discovered, Japanese dressing from the 1850s onward has always had a Victorian undercurrent. She played with elements of Victorian construction as well as traditional and contemporary Japanese dress, including workwear, and mixed them up for a characteristically subtle and quietly quirky collection. A white dress with an iridescent overlay of woven Lurex and silk had faint lines drawn in where Victorian pleats and seaming would be. The layer underneath had the actual pleats. It was paper light and pretty as a butterfly. A pair of voluminous pants in linen cupro were more substantial; they came in at the ankle in a nod to the trousers preferred by Japanese farmers. The best piece was a pale green vest with the elegance of a kimono. It had the delicacy of Arak's lovely lingerie and a modern, here-and-now feel.