September 27, 2012 Paris
That era has become a major flash point this season, and it makes sense that it should resonate with Rousteing. At 27, he's too young to remember those days personally. Two decades later there's still a lot of power in those power suits, and there's absolutely no arguing with the persuasive appeal of a simple skin-baring black leather bandeau and miniskirt. What tripped him up here was twofold. To start, he could've shaved an inch or two off those shoulders—they would've read as more modern. And for another thing, the embellishment factor was a factor too high. Some of the dresses didn't look all that different from the Cuban chairs that inspired them.
Rousteing's exuberance is hard to fault. But he was on to something with those simpler leather and denim pieces. A little less couture aspiration and a little more cool would be a good place to start next season.