September 27, 2012 Paris
That's thanks to new silhouettes like fuller, A-line skirts in place of last season's bubble minis and elongated, belted jackets that looked almost stately. Fabrics like a thick, substantial tweed seemed richer (not to mention fall-like—designers are shrugging off seasons more and more), but Henry hasn't lost his cheekier sensibilities. The safari print featured not just animals but also caravans and binoculars-wielding tourists. As for those cutouts, they were everywhere you looked: heart-shaped at the waist of suit jackets, above the bust on a coat-dress, on the sides of a racer-back sheath. If anything, Henry relied on them too much this season. They felt fresh when they were laser-cut in Gallé-esque Art Nouveau patterns, but Henry's next step forward should be to define some new signatures for the brand.