Fleetwood Mac's "Sisters of the Moon" was on the soundtrack, which should've been the first sign that something gauzier than usual was afoot at Carolina Herrera. "I wanted to work with a new proportion this season," the designer explained, "something incredibly light and soft." She was after fluidity and had an arsenal of chiffon, organza, tulle, and georgette in her toolkit.

The results were mixed. In her more comfortable evening zone, she was very much at home. It wouldn't be a Herrera show without column gowns, and there were beauties on display, in pleated silk chiffon and fils coupe. They were mature in the best sense. Where Herrera stretched herself with more youthful proposals, she stumbled. See the busy prints or high-waisted flounce shorts. Simplicity suited her better. Karlie Kloss' show-closing dress, easy and airy and prettily embroidered, suggested a road worth exploring further.