September 26, 2012 Paris
The medium of Doma's message was collage, a trend that's gotten a lot of play on this month's runways. Doma combined military-issue olive drab, quilted black leather, and marled gray fleece for a boxy cropped jacket and paired it with baggy silk pants. If it looked like he'd absorbed some recent Balenciaga-isms at times, a sleeveless, zip-front shift that combined military green cotton, blue silk, and black leather with a wide red-brown belt was a hit entirely his own. We'll go ahead and call it an underdog contender for day dress of the season. Tailored pantsuits, meanwhile, were cut from leather in front and textural jacquard in back. Sometimes such combos can feel forced; here they just clicked.