From the opening riffs of Biggie's "Hypnotize" to the taxi-cab-yellow windbreaker Donna Karan took a bow in, it was clear that this season—more so than any in recent memory—the DKNY designer was in an Empire state of mind. For the first time, pieces from the label's commercial sub-lines, DKNY Jeans and pureDKNY, were thrown into the runway mix, and the results were successful more often than not. You could picture models Alana Zimmer and Cara Delevingne sauntering down the city sidewalks in looks five and six, respectively: a rolled-down chambray jumpsuit tied around the waist styled with a silk button-up, and a coated-cotton blazer paired with distressed denim Bermuda shorts. On the other hand, there's a reason why you don't usually see cotton logo T-shirts at fashion shows. It's better to leave those to tourists. More directional items made an impact, too. Leather-trim circle skirts cut from spongy coated mesh, oversize color-blocked car coats, and neoprene-jersey racerback gowns nicely balanced femininity with urban athleticism. Meanwhile, accessories including baseball caps, leather knapsacks, fanny packs, and wedge sneakers played a key role in putting the NY back in DKNY.