September 17, 2012 London
Koma seems to have taken it upon himself to solve the plight of the tennis dress and make it interesting, contemporary, and sexy again without making kitsch reference to that ass-scratching seventies poster. What Koma produced was a decidedly body-con version of the dress—something that was more nightclub than country club—executed with a precision and a pop appreciation for his subject matter that was second to none. This was a full-blown tennis fetish sprung to life and explored in a myriad of detail—see the first sentence—with sex added to the sporting quality. The clothes were neat, geometric, graphic, sculptural, and totally contemporary; delineated in patent leather, engineered in thick jersey and silk, with some of the best use of the sheer/solid trend this season. Witness the precision layering of one outfit featuring a cropped green and black silk tennis-net sweatshirt over a see-through counterpart and a tight flesh-pink and green tennis-net skirt. Game, set, and match, as they say. And just think, if Serena or Venus wears any of these designs, it will bring new meaning to the phrase "Girlfriend in a Koma."