One of the developing stories this week has been American sportswear—workwear, to be more precise—and all the ways designers can elevate it on the runways. A season like this is made for Derek Lam, who's been practicing his own brand of sporty luxury for years. He keyed into the trend from the beginning of the show, co-opting madras plaids for a sleeveless dress, whipping up boxy T-shirts from crisp cottons, and, as is his custom, tweaking traditional trenches into something entirely new. The best look in the collection was a glorified fleece sweatshirt with rolled sleeves worn with a metallic gold leather skirt pieced together with black silk cord macramé. Modern and cool, it's exactly how Lam's girl wants to dress now.

Lam's other preoccupation this season was craft. In addition to that macramé, there was brightly hued guipure lace on a midriff-revealing top and a matching midi skirt. Other pieces were made from what looked like a lacquered basket weave. They showed off Lam's gorgeous color sense—black, with sunny yellow and fatigue green—even if they looked familiar from other runways. Meanwhile, large holographic paillettes embroidered on the front panels of skirts felt flashier than the rest of the collection—a grasp, perhaps, for last season's embellishment trend, which is already looking tired. Like we said at the beginning, Lam excels at polished sportswear. We would've traded in all of those paillettes put together for just one more of his inventive trenches.