Dean and Dan Caten channeled an influential Peter Lindbergh Vogue shoot circa 1990 on their Spring runway. You know the one—Naomi, Cindy, Linda, et al. vamping in motorcycle leather and miniskirts. The biker hats, the pearls and gold chains, the super-leggy silhouette—the look is so up the Catens' street, it's almost a surprise they haven't been here before.

Cartier and Chanel presumably won't be thrilled that the Dsquared² boys have lifted their ultra-recognizable logo typefaces for T-shirts emblazoned with their last name. And those quilted Coco-isms might prove problematic for them as well. But other than those instances, the runway was loaded with bankable merchandise of the kind that Dsquared² specializes in: shrunken leather jackets, even shrunken-er denim shorts with cheeky lace insets, an LBD with corset detailing, cropped schoolboy blazers, and a leopard-print party dress topped by bondage straps with hearts in place of O rings. All in all, a fun, sexy ride.