Daniel Vosovic's Spring collection is inspired by the expressive, intense work of Austrian painter Egon Schiele. The designer, a new member of the CFDA Incubator program, showed a string of chartreuse chiffon dresses with a mosaic print borrowed from the artist's early pieces, and aimed to bring Schiele's vision to life with his Spring video, which features ballerina Isabella Boylston, a soloist with the American Ballet Theatre. "Schiele's paintings are extremely graphic and gestural, and working with a dancer who understood movement was really the only answer. His work never seemed to be about capturing a final static pose, but more about a fleeting moment in time," Vosovic explained. "Isabella was able to bring that energy to the collection in a fluid, elevated way."

In line with that idea, there was a balance of fragility and functionality here. Wispy maxi skirts and sheer blouses with asymmetrical overlays hung next to tailored suiting separates with an urban sensibility. Slim, stretchy cotton trousers featured subtle mesh floating seams that looked like cracks along the kneecap and femur, while linen tweed jackets trimmed with leather had a collapsible, "S" shape, "almost as though she's so strong, she has to slouch," the designer pointed out. Vosovic launched his line two-and-a-half years ago now, and he's hitting his stride. "Things are slotting into place and I feel like I can flex my muscles a bit," he said.