"Neat," the name Giorgio Armani gave his Emporio collection, could be read a couple of ways: as a reference to the monotone precision of the clothes, or as a slightly ironic, teen-y nod of approval to a lineup that targeted a much younger audience than usual. At least, that was the impression left by flippy little layered pastel-toned skirts and flat metallic sandals, by the endless shorts suits and all-in-ones, by pixelated prints and silken swags clasped on the bias by metal clips. There was something a bit Diana the Huntress about it all. The gold, bronze, and platinum glazing compounded the classicism of that notion.

And then Armani went and showed a coat-and-shorts set in a glazed Prince of Wales check, or a natural suede coat with casually rolled sleeves, or a languid trouser suit, all of them reminding you of the kind of things he can design in his sleep. And that reminder came with a jolt of recognition—these are the clothes that thousands of women aspire to. But this season, they'll have to work harder to find the items they want among the teen-leaning fare.