September 15, 2012 London
And yet. Even the dabbling Marxist must admit that Wickstead is a very good designer. The clothes she showed this season—her second doing ready-to-wear—were atavistically polite, but they were sneaky, too. Wickstead knows how to cut the decorousness with a weird touch, like the splash of chartreuse on a crisp white dress, or the exaggerated flare of a peplum. And she's not above a little tasteful sexiness. But her best trick is her boldness with material. A simple sleeveless black dress with a full skirt, for instance, got much of its punch from the tonal leaf print it was made from. There was something a little off about that print, and it made the look special. And Wickstead had a thing of glory, too, in her superluxurious hand-painted fabrics done in a cool, abstract check pattern. A broad skirt in the material, slit cheekily high, looked pretty edgy paired with a top of black and white striped silk. Sigh. Rich girls really do have it all.