"I love a designer who knows his customer," an editor said tonight at Salvatore Ferragamo. Massimiliano Giornetti is that man. He took over Ferragamo's womenswear line in 2010 when it had been foundering; these days it's even registering with the new Russian fashion royalty, a few of whom were recently on hand in New York to promote the label at an in-store event. The point is, Giornetti has made the brand aspirational again.

There were certainly pieces in this collection that will have fashion-watchers making lists: black leather pants that laced all the way up the sides to the waistband; an olive green suede trench, slick in its simplicity; a matte gray crocodile dress with an asymmetric double-layer skirt; and probably most of all, the knee-high peep-toe flat croc boots.

This collection was super luxe, mostly in leather and exotic skins, but it registered much more casual than Giornetti's gold-leafed gypsies did for Fall. He's not setting any agendas with these clothes, but it's smart business to go after his clients' everyday needs. A black cashmere sweater and a little wrap miniskirt embroidered in gold discs, an ensemble the designer paired with flat black sandals, hit home.