In reviews of previous Felder Felder seasons, it's always seemed important to point out that designing twins Annette and Daniela Felder are exceptionally lithe and long-limbed girls who stand about six feet tall. That fact helped make sense of the Felder Felder clothes: To a great extent, Annette and Dani design for themselves. But something has changed, and the size and shape of the Felder twins doesn't seem so relevant anymore. The poised and pretty collection they showed today was stocked with clothes for women with all kinds of bodies, like soft suede suiting and relaxed halter-neck gowns. Even the Felders' trademark fit-and-flare dress has evolved, taking on a more supple and forgiving silhouette.

This season also charted real growth in separates. Flared shorts, crop tops, sheer palazzo pants, and trim, V-neck button-downs all added dimension to a collection that was still, mainly, about dresses. The Felders should keep emphasizing those kinds of mix-and-match pieces, because they worked. And they should continue to develop their vocabulary of embellishment: This time out, they traded their usual punkish studs for fluttering scraps of chiffon, and in general, that worked, too. (Though a little of the chiffon went a long way.) Overall, this collection proved that the Felder twins can design for a more mature albeit still youthful clientele. As noted above, they do design for themselves.