When you think about brand revivals that have stuck—Givenchy's comeback at the hands of Riccardo Tisci, Peter Dundas' rehab of Emilio Pucci, the nascent Kenzo turnaround courtesy of Humberto Leon and Carol Lim—the one thing nearly all of them have done is set their sights on the young. For better or worse, in the fashion world that seems to be where the action is. Three seasons in at Genny
, the Italian sportswear brand once helmed by the heat-seeking Gianni Versace himself, Gabriele Colangelo still hasn't quite found his footing. As he did at his signature collection—where, by the way, he's garnering the attention of top-of-the-masthead types—Colangelo put fabric play at the center of Genny's Spring offerings. There were tapestry jacquards, cotton and linen woven to resemble basket weaves, and an oversize geometric print based on intarsia here—all a bit more mumsy than he probably intended. A bit too thinky. Another idea might be to zero in on cut and proportion, and really consider the way young women who love fashion are wearing their clothes now.