"Part rock, part rebel, part aristo" the Iceberg
show notes promised. Designer Paolo Gerani might've been conjuring the Glastonbury music festival or Ibiza or anywhere where junior members of the jet set like to congregate when the weather turns warm. There were long skirts with slits up the thigh and wide belts slung at the hips, skinny silver-dipped jeans, a blazer densely beaded in mosaic patterns. If there were echoes of Isabel Marant and Balmain in a multicolor knit baseball tee and an acid-wash denim double-breasted coat-dress, no big deal—who hasn't lifted something from those two influential runways? But a couple of missteps—the not-so-great fit of a strappy halter dress, suedes that didn't quite look aristo-rich—prevented this season's collection from living up to the full promise of its theme.