September 28, 2012 Paris
First, there was color in delicious combinations, in jersey dresses with a simple, drapey ease. Although there is, of course, no such thing as simple in the world of Miyake, so whatever fabric effect you were looking at was inevitably head-spinningly obtuse. Here, something called "double-sided transfer printing" meant that fabric was colored front and back, each side visible through the other. "Yarn melting"? Well, that sounds interesting, and judging by what was on the catwalk, it looks good too, if it was responsible for the dresses with the boing-boing bounce. "Steam stretch"? Probably the same, if it meant the black and white knits pulled out into pixie corners and set with heat.
One characteristic of the Miyake collection has always been an elegance of line. It was at its best here because it was called upon to corral all the colors and patterns into one coherent whole. If the world looked this way, it would truly be a better place.