September 07, 2012 New York
Lace and leather predominated and often came together, as they did on a backless black apron dress with laser-cut flowers at the hem and a fitted nude sheath with a point d'esprit bodice and tulle insets zigzagging down the torso. Lillian Bassman was another reference point, and her signature black and white images provided an x-rayed floral motif that was its own innuendo. A collaboration with the lingerie maker La Perla provided ample cause for all the sheer chiffons Wu used. Another time, a tanned and taut midriff was on full display between a lace bandeau top and kicky leather skirt.
Does the dominatrix shoe fit? Some of the kink did push Wu dangerously beyond his comfort zone. The tailoring, though, was a strength. A pair of narrowly cut jumpsuits and a sleeveless blouse tucked into high-waisted stovepipe trousers hinted at the androgyny that was also famously part of Newton's oeuvre. Sexy? In spades.