September 11, 2012 New York
This was a clunky season for Packham. And it made you realize, watching her sixties Vegas-inspired sheath dresses come down the runway, that there's a craft, too, in making straightforwardly glam frocks. Glittery Vegas should have been good source material for this designer, who's never met a sequin, bead, or crystal she didn't like, but like many a gambler, Packham went too far. There were just too many looks so over-dappled with embellishment that they looked heavy; the short dresses were OK, but the models had to muscle the floor-length gowns to the photographers' pit and back. Packham had a few interesting ideas, like creating a kind of flock pattern with sequins, and her dangling paillettes created a nice sense of movement. But the overall impression here was of a collection that—vintage references aside—just didn't feel modern.