Jeremy Scott may be fashion's ultimate divisive/inclusive designer. There are plenty in the stiff-upper-lip echelons of the industry who dismiss him. There are as many others who find his manic joy infectious. It's hard to imagine another designer who could entice Tyra Banks and Paris Hilton, Grimes and Ryan Lochte into his front row. But actually, Scott's is the rare show where the best action is in the standing section. That's where the true believers are, bedecked in their best Scott, which means pants sprouting teddy bears and leather jackets bursting into appliquéd flames. There were (at least) two girls in the same JS top-and-skirt sweater set with an allover intarsia of Bart Simpson's face. Anywhere else, this might've been cause for a bout of gasping pique. Here, it was cause for an Instagram.

Scott's new collection was a riff on Middle Eastern themes. He'd been watching the news, he explained backstage after the show. "The Arab Spring," he said, "could be a fashion moment." That's a minefield, metaphorically and otherwise. Scott is not without his love of bad taste, and some of his more provocative moments rankled here, in part because they seemed obvious. The leopard-print, sequined burka, worn over a mesh tank dress to reveal a model's underwear. The croc-printed leathers in oily, petroleum black. The metal-mesh chain mail dangling golden coins and machine-gun charms. Scott insisted those were in tribute to the guns raised in celebration of democracy and peace. Some guns are. Then again, whatever his intentions may have been, some guns aren't.

The moments where the touch was lighter, accordingly, flew higher. There were some cute skirts, jackets, and even a baseball jersey in sky blue snakeskin-printed leather. Days' worth of prints—leopard, giraffe, kaffiyeh, and more—should satisfy some fans, while marquee appreciators will battle for the bandeau tops and lavishly embroidered sheer black evening pants. Scott didn't reinvent the wheel on this one, but he may have figured out a savvy new way to monetize it. Spring marked the beginning of a collaboration with New Era on snap-back caps in the collection's fabrics and prints, which accessorized every look. They could sell a million among the faithful.