After Fendi and Chanel, it was clearer than ever this season what Karl Lagerfeld's own collection actually stands for. As he once memorably observed, anything bearing his name is pretty close to how he imagines himself dressing if he were a woman. Unsurprisingly, that meant his Spring offering for Karl Lagerfeld Paris veered between a sveltely structured futurism and a governess-y strictness. A halfway house between dreamland Gattaca and birthplace Hamburg, in other words. The palette said it all: black, white, and a silvery metallic, which flowed over Poppy Delevingne's body like a mercury second skin. The governess? A white blouse with a double bib tucked into a high-waisted black leather skirt suggested the kind of woman who'd keep naughty little Karl in check.

That bib with its asymmetry was a recurrent motif throughout the collection, on everything from dresses to leather jackets. Also recurring was a trompe l'oeil element: the black jumper dress over the white top, all one piece, or the jewel-buttoned tee under a black gown, also a single garment. And all of it was cut from ultra-light technical fabrics: tech cotton, tech silk, stretch linen, rubber-effect leather for the accessories. The overall impression was a streamlined, monochrome antithesis of the profligate creativity of Lagerfeld's other work as a fashion gun for hire. It will be made even clearer in February, when he opens his own shop in Paris.