September 06, 2012 New York
Draping, transparency, and paneled layering were the core elements at work here, and the collection was heavy on ephemeral dresses that moved fluidly around the body. A tighter edit would have made the subtle features on these pieces stand out more: There was raised textural detailing on an otherwise simple white dress, and the angle of the hems on relaxed pants was cut upward at the ankle like a triangle. As it was, the loosened-up silhouette made the few structured outerwear pieces really pop. A sweatshirt vest in heather gray and a cropped white jacket had a refreshing crispness while still looking lightweight enough to wear on the road. There were strictly body-con dresses, too, but the best looks incorporated movement and structure, such as a slinky jersey dress with one broad strap in textured leather. The collection's desert palette of black and nude (with one digital print abstracted from crystals spotted on a design field trip to the American Museum of Natural History and a few looks in emerald green) made the clothes feel like foundation pieces. They will look sharper with shoes (the models went barefoot) and should stand up to city styling.