Louise Goldin was always pretty cool. Back when she was showing in London—as part of the same class of up-and-comers as Erdem and Christopher Kane—her sexy sci-fi knits made her brand count as one of the city's hippest. Tonight, after a two-year hiatus, Goldin returned to the fashion calendar, and she was cooler than ever. Some of that was atmospheric: Diplo did the music; Kim and Kanye sat in the front row. But mostly, the coolness was in Goldin's clothes. The collection had a casual and even sporty vibe, with stretchy knits, color-blocking, sweatshirt shapes, and NFL shoulders, and individually, lots of the pieces were very good. There were also a few looks where Goldin really nailed it: an all-white outfit that paired slouchy shorts with a knockout sweater done in a nipple-y technical knit; the stretchy tan skirt in a tire-tread print worn with a darted sweatshirt of blue and silver.

In general, the strongest looks were the cleanest. Though the layering here was often effective, in particular the layered skirts, you sometimes sensed that Goldin was trying too hard to make a look offbeat, or create an awkward proportion. Still, this was a respectably confident return to the runway, and one stocked with ideas that Goldin should continue to explore.