September 26, 2012 Paris
Maybe that has something to do with "the Japanese mood" Limi talked about capturing. As far as fashion goes, she has always been a tough, tattooed, bike-booted Stooges fan (there's still disbelief in her voice when she talks about her father, Yohji Yamamoto, not having a clue who Iggy is), but there was another quality in her new collection, a kind of bruised fierceness that suggested defensiveness—or protection—on one hand, and strength—or projection—on the other. The disaster 18 months ago still reverberates in Japan, not least for the younger generation of fashion designers battered by a shaky economy. There was something else in Limi's clothes, though—something that the artful dodginess of the lookbook missed. That was the sturdiness of worn clothes treasured, treated in a way to give them new value. And that said "survival."