Lela Rose is often inspired by an artist, and this season the work of Jim Hodges was her creative springboard. In a phone call before her show, Rose described Hodges' preoccupations as "the contrasting dualities of lightness and mass, and the frailty of time." Sounds a little heady for a collection of contemporary cocktail dresses, but Rose kept things approachable and pretty. Queen of the darkness she is not.

Hodges' spiderweb prints were translated into lace embroidery. A blousy, silver lace tee floated away from the model's frame, light as a web, and a mirrored pattern in black guipure on a white sheath looked sharp and clean. Prints and surface treatments were the main focus here, with simple, nipped-waist silhouettes serving as canvases. One full-skirted organza dress with blurred, dreamy flowers growing from the hem looked like an Impressionist painting come to life. Chain necklaces incorporated into dresses—another nod to Hodges—missed the mark; they felt out of place with the otherwise properly feminine mood. The variety of embellishments here—lace, flowers, chains—meant the collection didn't hang together as such (blame it on Hodges, whose body of work is diverse), but buyers will have plenty of options when spring's party and wedding season rolls around.