October 01, 2012 Paris
Backstage, company president Kristy Caylor said, "Techniques really play an important role." Inspired by a journey through Peru, from the Sacred Valley to Lake Titicaca to the Amazon, creative director Gabriella Zanzani employed gesso techniques and rich embroideries in contrast colors.
The show opened with white-on-white looks, as so many have this season. A breezy slipdress with a subtle chevron design was lovely. That, and several other silk numbers with full yet fluid A-line skirts reminded some in the crowd of Phoebe Philo's Chloé glory days. Zanzani should make the most of that affinity and figure out how to re-create the look for Fall. Also strong: a pair of wide-leg pants and a cargo vest.
The label's fine-jewelry collection is earning attention in its own right. On the runway, long chain necklaces with tassels and diamond pendants were the standout pieces.