"It's not your grandmother's Chanel jacket," said designer Michelle Smith, gesturing at a hooded tweed bomber jacket backstage before Milly's Spring show. Styled with a structured cage skirt cut from metallic gauze, the look demonstrated how Smith picked up her prepster-with-a-twist and bolted toward the saturated sportswear-inspired market. There was a long windbreaker cut from a featherweight techno fabric, which was also whipped up into a corseted sheath with a couturelike cascade in back. The more obvious athletic references here, including bright, zipper-trimmed scuba dresses and mesh sweatshirts, seemed somewhat well explored already, but you're still bound to see more of them on the trendy girls preening around Lincoln Center next NYFW.