name-checked Irving Penn, Robert Mapplethorpe, and the South Korean painter Lee Ufan. He's clearly feeling arty for Spring, but his clothes retained a minimalism in keeping with the mood of this Italian season. His main idea was to use simple, unfettered shapes almost like an empty canvas. Ufan's Rothko-like blocks of color were splashed across tunic tees, and a print of Mapplethorpe's calla lilies extended down the side of a tank top and onto its matching Bermuda shorts or horizontally across the hems of both a coat and the dress underneath it. By contrast, a dress with allover three-dimensional plastic appliqués looked fussy, as did a black liquid jersey halter dress with jet beading at the neckline. For evening, tanks and skirts with deep bands of sequins on their tulip petal hems were a better fit with his cleaned-up vision.