"I was thinking of faraway places," Nicolas Andreas Taralis
said today. A statement like that could be a warning sign coming from a designer of less-disciplined habits. On another runway, we could've been in for a costume drama. Not here. Even when Taralis is looking at Japan or outer space, which were two of his talking points today, his signatures remain constant. This is a man who lives and breathes for tailoring. Japan came through in the origamilike constructions of shoulders on jackets—as if the fabric was pinched together rather than stitched. Outer space was at once a more obvious reference (see the aluminum foil coat, made from lacquered nylon polyamide) and a more subtle one: We wouldn't have guessed the quilted and draped collar of a more casual jacket was inspired by astronauts' uniforms if Taralis hadn't alerted us to the fact backstage.
The designer's best idea didn't quite fit into either of those categories, but it felt of a piece with his work in general. It was, no surprise, another jacket, this one with a single shoulder and sleeve sliced off and darts on one hip to create a sort of half-peplum. Worn with a pair of sheer dhoti pants, as he showed it in the opening outfit, it would make a fabulous evening look.