Oscar de la Renta is New York fashion's éminence grise. Over the decades he's become synonymous with uptown swish, and because he often dresses political wives—Ann Romney wore ODLR for her convention speech—he's also a household name. Lately, though, he just as reliably delivers runway surprises. This season, those included a passage of four sets of evening shorts, and latex in the form of a slick red T-shirt worn with a jaunty navy blazer and thigh-slit khaki skirt. None of which will be written about in the fashion history books, but you've got to admire the gentleman's moxie.

In fact, what this collection had going for it, as it often does, was its diversity. First ladies, society swans, Hollywood types, Wall Streeters—Oscar has dressed them all. First daughters, too: Barbara Bush and Jenna Bush Hager were sitting in the front row. All of them will find something to like for spring. For the minimalists, he showed an ivory linen pantsuit and a black silk Madame X dress. Maximalists had their choice of day suits in doily lace and fuchsia astrakhan. After dark, a pair of party dresses in feather-embroidered tulle were especially memorable, and we predict we'll be seeing a lot of the shocking pink strapless gown with the green silk pompoms in magazines. One particularly influential French editor could be heard saying, "J'adore Oscar, j'adore Oscar" on her way to the elevator. Who doesn't?