September 08, 2012 New York
Words of praise and congratulations were overheard as people stopped to take in the scene at Milk Studios. Fifteen models were clad in sixties-style getups inspired by Frances Brody, a wealthy philanthropist who commissioned Matisse to make a mural for her mansion's courtyard. "She [Brody] told Matisse to redo it," Helgason said in a preview the night before the presentation. "That is the kind of strong, adventurous woman that we were thinking about." A graphic color-blocked dress—whose fabric comes from the same house as Dior's—was layered over a preppy collared shirt. Not exactly what you would expect, but it worked. The same pink and burgundy combo came in a cropped trouser that was paired with a printed chiffon tank. On an even lighter note, there were fun, Picasso-like animal drawings on cute sweatshirt dresses. One Russian editor pointed out a pair of bubblegum pink and navy short shorts with a button-up top as one of her favorite looks. Tommy Ton, get your camera ready.