Guests arriving at today's Ohne Titel
show were greeted by a curious piece of art—an installation of balloons with a distinctly mammary look created by Jason Hackenwerth, one of the artists cited by Ohne Titel designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill as an inspiration this season. The other was Karl Wirsum, and in particular his drawings from the late sixties. The artist's influence was legible once Gill and Adams pointed it out—it was there in the collection's playful palette, and in the curvilinear color-blocking on a lot of the clothes—but it was hardly overt. Whereas the key, unmentioned reference point this season was Ohne Titel itself. Much of this collection comprised looks that reiterated ideas from Gill and Adams' past shows: short fit-and-flare silhouettes, body-mapping paneled construction, optical black and white, blue and black, and red and cream knits. And a major theme of this show—the use of wide-net mesh in paneled pieces—was a direct quotation from Fall 2010, Ohne Titel's breakthrough season.
Still, the reiterated ideas read less as repetition and more like consolidation. Adams and Gill have figured out the Ohne Titel signatures; they know what works for their brand and their customer. The mesh, in particular, was very much welcome back—especially in this collection's evolved, perforated leather pieces. The final look, a short, perforated leather dress with an almost luminescent revealed lining, was a high point. Elsewhere, Adams and Gill turned out T-shirt-shaped intarsia knit dresses and silk blouses bearing the season's curvilinear graphics, and silk separates with a sporty mien. The collection didn't advance much on previous ones—the primary new idea was a kind of floating shoulder construction—but the designers' reinterpretation of past themes was solid.