Sir Paul Smith
doesn't break a sweat. Today, he showed a typically assured collection, albeit one that tiptoed just outside his comfort zone. The focus here was on color-blocking, a theme Smith reiterated through long, breezy dresses, pleated skirts, cropped pants, and pajama tops blocked with print. Some of the dresses came off a bit shapeless, but Smith's pleated skirts, slit on one side, boasted a cool, understated Céline-ish sexiness. Elsewhere, Smith did well with one particular shape of cropped trouser: High-waisted, pleated, and rather mannish, they had some of the oddball appeal of a thrift store find. Where this collection tread into dangerous territory was in its closing passage of striped knits. The fitted jackets were a touch eccentric, which was OK, but if there's a case to be made for the return of the stirrup pant, this was not it. Still, these pieces, and the voluminous dresses as well, served notice that the unflappable Smith isn't prepared to rest on his laurels quite yet.