Pierre Balmain was founded as a sister line to Balmain. Judging by Spring, the family tree is branching. The recognizable signatures of Balmain—rock 'n' roll, embellishment, luxury, and urbane cool—were mostly absent here. Instead, Pierre Balmain turned out to be a sweet collection aimed at gamines and their would-be worldwide counterparts. (It can't be an accident that the digital fashion show the brand streamed today was taped from a runway outing in Beijing, cast with largely Asian models.) The clothes were a fantasy of polite bourgeois chic, with cropped, tapered trousers, flared skirts, and peplum-accented tops. Even perforated peekaboo pieces and a smattering of motorcycle jackets didn't add much edge. Arguably, they didn't need to. Related or not, Pierre Balmain is a separate line from Balmain and designed by a separate team from its sibling. But this collection marked a change from the label's first two seasons, when it served as a wanted and needed entry point for aspiring Balmainiacs on a budget. You sense that this member of the family is still forming her identity.