We were in a Third arrondissement parking garage, but Pedro Lourenço was thinking about airplanes. The Brazilian's Spring collection picked up where his military-inspired Resort lineup left off. "There's a strength to the shapes, but the colors are feminine," he said backstage. The show began with leather jackets as precise as pilots' uniforms, and ended with aerodynamic, cutout bathing suits. In between, Lourenço sent out clever quilted lamé bomber jackets, the sleeves of which zipped off so they could also be worn as vests, and a few wool gabardine sweatshirts with jets printed on them.

Since arriving on the Paris scene during the Fall 2010 collections, Lourenço has established a formal, if not strict voice. He keeps his patternmakers very busy, and he has a taste for couture-quality fabrics and treatments, some of which he indulged in here, like houndstooth embroidery on a crepe jacket, and a tuxedo made from lamé hand-cut for a fringed look. But Lourenço is barely 22, and we've sometimes asked why he doesn't loosen up just a bit.

A strong yet slouchy red pantsuit with a black stripe below the waistband that picked up the black of the plunge-front shirt it was worn with suggested he's finally thinking along more relaxed lines. Going forward, he should further explore territory like the show's trio of little slipdresses. They were quite elaborate in their collaged construction, but ultimately cool in their effect.