September 20, 2012
New York is out and Milan is in for Ports. This runway show was a homecoming of sorts for Fiona Cibani; the company is headquartered here. Apropos of that, she began the collection with the proverbial clean slate: a group of bracing all-white looks that combined streamlined, almost masculine leather pieces like tees and dresses with diaphanous layers of pleated silk and lace. Shapes were away from the body, even tentlike in some cases. To counter the aerodynamic silhouettes, she added coils of clear beads to necklines, some of which plunged to a deep U in back—a feminine touch. And that wasn't the end of the juxtapositions in a show that made a habit out of hybridization—see the otherwise simple yellow sundress that was spliced at the waistline with lace and pleats. That number was definitely too clever for its own good. When an understated mint green leather trench came down the runway, it was a welcome sight.