"Warm minimalism" is the term Reed Krakoff has used in the past to describe his aesthetic. Before his new show, the phrase he kept repeating was "cool femininity." There hasn't been so much of a shift in his sensibility, though, as there has been a sharpening of it. Seeing today's focused outing made last Spring's exotic-bird print—the one Ann Romney wore on CBS This Morning—look like an aberration. The only color Krakoff used other than neutrals and black was berry pink, and there were definitely no prints.

For Spring, the designer trained his attention on sport and lingerie and where the two intersect. They may be unlikely bedfellows, but Krakoff's sheer mesh track jackets looked interesting, and his multilayer chiffon boxer shorts were a genuinely new proposition for gals who have the legs to wear them. Dresses have been one of Krakoff's challenges in the past, but thinking about foundation pieces gave him a reason to build structure into his slipdresses for the first time. They were legitimately sexy in the vein of Narciso Rodriguez, even if the sheer overlays proved more distracting than they were flattering.

In counterpoint, Krakoff showed some of the most confident tailoring of his career. A crisp white shirt buttoned up to the collar with leather shoulders, for instance, and the low-slung khaki pants with racing stripes it was worn with. Or the tan blazer with narrow shoulders that was paired with elastic-waist track pants in stocking jersey. The piece that had editors elbowing each other, however, was a genuine crocodile skirt split up the sides with rounded hems. It matched the super-luxe soft croc tote bags Krakoff paired with many of the looks.