Fashion week is already in full swing for Robert Rodriguez, who flew into New York on Sunday night to prep for his presentation today at the Mercer Hotel. Fresh off a vacation in Bora Bora, the designer was tan, refreshed, and ready for the crazy week ahead—and that mood extended to the clothes he's showing for Spring. "After last year's colorful collection, I wanted to concentrate on neutrals and garment construction," said Rodriguez. "So I decided to do a lot of black and white." While there may have been a lack of color, there wasn't a lack of opulence. A moto-trench jacket, minidresses, and pleated skirts were done in a laminated raffia made to look like leather, while a "nail-head fringe" motif hung off the sleeves of a silk baseball jacket and a sheer blouse.

For his print story, Rodriguez took inspiration from baroque wallpaper that he transformed into a pair of filigree pants and a fit-and-flare dress with peplumlike folds. "We are a contemporary label," he said. "But I really wanted to bring the collection to the next level." His intentions were clear, especially with the fit of the garments, the best of which was a tailored-to-a-tee pantsuit, whose jacket had intricate cutouts and matte grommet snaps on the back. Each look was accessorized with necklaces and bracelets from the designer's first complete jewelry line.