Rachel Zoe had new muses today—she name-checked Jane Birkin and Talitha Getty—but nearly two years into her new contemporary brand her signatures are coming into focus. The stylist-turned-designer loves a pantsuit, and she put a lot of emphasis on them here. The flares she usually does, though, played second fiddle to a polka-dot suit with tapering trousers that the model wore with flats, and a black jacket and Bermuda shorts combo. Bermuda shorts have been a surprise hit on the Spring runways.

The other half of Zoe's heart is California bohemian. Nothing exemplified the show's laid-back SoCal vibe so much as the oversize T-shirt slouching off one shoulder that topped a floor-scraping white paillette column skirt. Unless it was the pool blue chiffon maxi dress over which she belted a turquoise linen jacket.

There were plenty of wearable pieces, but for all her fame and influence Zoe is still new at the runway thing, and this show felt over-merchandised. When a model walks down the runway in a floppy hat, sunglasses, and gold lariat, carrying an oversize bag slung across her body, it's easy to overlook the clothes. Something to keep in mind for next time.