Last Spring, Sophie Theallet asserted "sexual tension" as a guiding theme of her collection. This time out, sexual tension went unmentioned by the designer, but it didn't go unexplored. Using the symbolism of a dragonfly as a way to express sense of self, Theallet designed for a woman who, she explained after the show, knows who she is and does what she likes. And for the most part, that attitude was reflected in Theallet's elegantly layered ensembles—eclectic combinations of fitted button-downs, vivid intarsia knits, and organza palimpsest dresses with frayed edges. But a few looks indicated that one thing this season's Theallet woman likes is sex: Her column dresses with razor-thin racerbacks, for instance, made a confident statement of sexuality, though they were anything but crass.

The dragonfly theme was overt: Theallet made a dragonfly pattern that appeared in knits and as a print, and her filmy organzas were layered against each other to create iridescent, winglike effects. Elsewhere, she played diaphanous games with pleated chiffon that gathered about the body then took flight. As usual for Theallet, palette and pattern were strong elements—pop colors were set against new versions of her signature bohemian prints, these astutely colored in souk tones of turquoise and ocher. The shapes felt familiar, too—the dominant silhouette was Theallet's tried-and-true full skirt—but that wasn't a bad thing. Like her muse this season, Theallet knows who she is, and this season, in more ways than one, she did what she likes.