This season's St. John
presentation couldn't have been more different than last winter's runway show, where handlers hustled Kate Winslet, in a second-skin leather shift, into her front-row perch a few seconds before the show began. This time the looks were on mannequins at the brand's properly corporate corporate headquarters, just around the corner from its Fifth Avenue boutique. Senior VP of Design Greg Myler, who has replaced designer George Sharp, explained the choice of a static presentation this season as a way for viewers to better see the texture of the clothes. "We're a knit house, after all," he said. That's all well and good, but the truth is these clothes might have been anticlimactic on a runway. The silhouettes consisted of a handful of fit-and-flare dresses—further nipped in at the waist with wide patent belts—smart daytime jackets with pencil skirts, and a drapey tunic dress for evening. There were suits and dresses in color for those who like color, and similar styles in black and white for those who don't. Save a cluster of beads on a satin opera coat, embellishment was practically nonexistent. Myler's byword for the collection was "clean." As he finds his footing in his new position he'll most likely have more opportunities to get a little dirty.