The play of the masculine against the feminine has been a familiar theme this season. And Sharon Wauchob had already looked at it in her earlier showing of the Edun collection in New York. There it was the casual and slouchy military-inflected route. Here it was the notion of formality that made the play between the two sexes. The yin and yang found itself in the black and white pieces—yes, here was further focus on those two (non) colors of the season, again along with a debt to the tuxedo. There was also a hint of perforated floral lacquerwork about those sheer and solid black looks at the beginning. So many trends were being hit in this collection, and yet there was some sense that it lacked conviction.

Wauchob is much better as a designer when there is a harder edge to what she does. Her Fall collection had that edge together with something that melded the tough with the luxurious. But the liberal use of fur that worked there isn't really an option for summer. Here, in comparison, the mixture of silk and polyester pieces felt wan. The standout looks of the collection were the ones that played with transparency—see-through, almost pajama trousers worn with shorts underneath and tops with underwear visible. They featured a silk scarf print and maintained a certain flamboyant, graphic approach. More of that flamboyance would have been welcome.