Since his start at Theyskens' Theory two years ago, Olivier Theyskens has delivered the goods. First it was those corduroy flares pooling at editors' heels. Today, the holographic sequined jackets he showed a year ago (and that sparked a trend for holographic anything) were lighting up the front row.

If it was harder to pick out the hits on his runway for Spring, that's because Theyskens isn't playing it quite as safe anymore. Sure, he opened with an understated beauty of a black suit—double-breasted with slim tapering pants—but just as often he gave his tailoring a bolder spin, using shoulder-extending pads or cutting pleated, full-leg trousers with deep rises in glossy midnight leather. The majority of the collection was navy and black. Afterward, the designer said that he's been a bit obsessed with images of the deep sea. (That might also explain the models' wet-look wigs, which seemed to echo Theyskens' own recent reinvention—he cut his shoulder-blade-grazing hair to his chin this summer.)

The icy blues of the beaded and sequined dresses were, in turn, he said, inspired by jellyfish—thus their slightly amorphous, away-from-the-body shapes. Again, in case these should be daunting to shoppers, Theyskens had more body-flattering alternatives in a pair of LBDs with gathered and ruched waistbands.

Overall, this collection felt like a transitional one. Change is never easy, but it's a thrill to see the 35-year-old going for it.