September 09, 2012 New York
"I wanted to take my aesthetic and find a new way of working it," she said before the show. The Manolo Blahnik-designed flat sandals and monk-strap men's shoes that the models wore may have felt like a grand departure (VB is strictly a heels girl herself), but otherwise this was a subtle evolution. The same rules that have always applied still apply: solid colors, no prints; athletic cuts; and fabrics with a dry, almost crisp feel, like canvas, georgette, chiffon, and lace—sometimes all in one dress. Although she did include a few silk blouses and midi-length skirts with a bit more breathing room, more typical of her new offerings was a white button-down with graphic lace sleeves that topped a sunset orange A-line miniskirt as body-loving as anything Alaïa has ever done. The gals who requested more tailoring won't be disappointed, either. Beckham poured all the sexiness of her signature dresses into a pair of high-waisted stovepipe-skinny trousers, and its matching single-breasted jacket looked sharp, too.
With her business turning four years old, it was a smart time to diversify—the fashion set is notorious for boring easily. Still, the highlights here were those sheath dresses, this time around with lace insets or sheer ribbed bodices that put built-in bra cups and straps on display.