Androgyny, but soft. Ease and sensuousness. Beachside bohemia, à la française. Backstage, before her show started, all you had to do was listen to Vanessa Bruno tick off her list of key themes for the season to know that she had taken up residence in her sweet spot. And her collection didn't disappoint: Suits aside, this was a show premised on vacation daydreams. Oh, to be in St. Bart's, or Saint-Tropez, or one of those other insouciantly fancy French-speaking beach spots, where one of Bruno's long sand-toned sundresses, or her white-and-blue wallpaper-print jumpsuit, would look right at home.

Actually, Bruno's sundresses and her (admittedly tricky to wear) jumpsuit would look just fine on the mean streets of Paris or New York. As usual, the designer applied just enough urbanity to this collection to make gauzy vibes viable. That was nowhere truer than in her tailoring—this season's cropped trousers and little jackets with a kick at the back will go down a storm at retail. And her bias-cut silk skirts had a low-slung, lazy cool. The seersucker stripe, frond print, and broderie anglaise threatened to tip Bruno out of her sweet spot and into saccharine-ville—a bad neighborhood. But in general she kept things sharp.