September 28, 2012 Paris
It's a long way of saying that reviving a heritage label, no matter how illustrious the name, is hard. Really hard. And Vionnet's name was once illustrious; the inventor of the bias cut, she helped free women from the cage of corsetry. Now? You can't blame customers if they've lost interest. Inconsistency can sink a brand; even a 100-year-old name can lose its currency.
Ashkenazi demonstrated today that she has a general sense of Madeleine Vionnet's house codes—the asymmetric necklines, the draped square cuts—and she gave the sheer chiffons and georgettes a modern spin, often pairing them with pants underneath. But the collection lacked finesse, and it'll need it to compete in the fashion world of 2012.