Technical materials have been all over the runways this season, which ought to have put Véronique Leroy at a distinct advantage. The designer has a history with unconventional fabrications, and they emerged as the strong focus of this collection. The show notes promoted a narrative about Mormon austerity colliding with clichéd, va-va-voom sexiness, but really this was a show better served by its surface appeal than its subtext, for the real story here was Leroy's experimentation with different scales of exaggerated mesh, and her playful, sheer takes on hoary patterns such as houndstooth and leopard print. That made for some excellent individual pieces—to wit, the full skirt and slick hooded jacket in a red-toned, technical leopard print. But the experimentation with the mesh came to seem rather purposeless, or at any rate underdeveloped.

Elsewhere in the collection, Leroy fell back on her other specialty: sculptural construction. The two main themes here were an exaggerated, squared-off shoulder and a wrap-style top. The shoulder came off rather well; a crisp, white button-down tunic looked especially chic. But the wrapping made you feel, again, that Leroy had quit developing the idea before it was fully formed. All in all, this was a shoppable, on-trend collection, but one that could have had a sharper point of view.